(LOT 847) F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain “Remontoir d’Égalité”
Case No. 246-03T | c. 2003 | Brass-movement generation
Why It Matters
When François-Paul Journe launched the Tourbillon Souverain in 1999, it marked a historic innovation: the first wristwatch to combine a one-minute tourbillon with a remontoir d’égalité (constant-force remontoir). Early-series models like this 2003 example—powered by the brass-plated calibre 1498 and featuring a rare solid white-gold dial—embody the experimental spirit that transformed F.P. Journe from an independent outsider into a blue-chip auction favorite. This watch stands at the crossroads between Journe’s “brass era” (1999–2004) and the later rose-gold movement period, making it exceptionally coveted by collectors.
Key Technical Talking Points
| Feature | Detail | Why It’s Special |
|---|---|---|
| Movement | Manual-wind calibre 1498, brass baseplate/bridges, 25 jewels, 21,600 vph; 42-hour power reserve | Brass parts were finished to haute-horlogerie standards but soon replaced by rose-gold plates, so surviving brass pieces are scarcer and show Journe’s early finishing style. |
| Constant-force remontoir | Blade-spring remontoir delivers a perfectly even 1-second impulse to the tourbillon escape wheel every second | Maintains amplitude even as the mainspring winds down, giving the Tourbillon Souverain chronometric credibility rather than tourbillon theatre. |
| Case & dial | 38 mm platinum, 8.6 mm thick; solid white-gold dial with off-centre hours/minutes, power-reserve arc, exposed remontoir aperture at 10 o’clock | The platinum/white-gold combination highlights Journe’s preference for tonal monochrome. The cut-out at 10 o’clock lets observers watch the remontoir “blink” once per second. |
| Serial logic | “246-03T” → 246th tourbillon made; “03” = 2003 production year; “T” = tourbillon | Confirms this watch belongs to the last full year of brass-movement production. |
Market Snapshot (Recent)
At Phillips Hong Kong, November 2024, case no. 246-03T hammered for HK $2.4 million (≈ US $310k), comfortably within its HK $1.7–2.8 million estimate—highlighting continued robust demand for brass-era Journe watches with white-gold dials.
Collector Angle
Transition Piece: Combines first-generation brass mechanics with the refined dial layout introduced in 2002, prior to the 2004 shift to rose-gold calibre 1403.
Visual Theatre: The ticking remontoir aperture functions as a “living heartbeat,” a rare kinetic detail often missing in enclosed tourbillon watches.
Rarity Multiplier: Fewer than 400 brass-movement Tourbillon Souverains were produced, and only a small fraction feature the solid white-gold dial.
(LOT 853) MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement
Ref No: LM SE | Circa 2022 | Case Numbers 0 to 18 / 04WY53574 | Calibre with 35 Jewels
Why It Matters
Introduced in 2022, the Legacy Machine Split Escapement (LM SE) stands as a pinnacle of MB&F’s innovative mastery in haute horlogerie. This watch uniquely features a split-seconds chronograph mechanism with an exposed vertical clutch and column wheel, integrated into the distinctive Legacy Machine architecture. Limited to just 19 pieces, it exemplifies MB&F’s fusion of cutting-edge technical complexity with sculptural artistry, cementing its status as a highly sought-after collector’s trophy.
Key Technical Talking Points
| Feature | Detail | Why It’s Special |
|---|---|---|
| Movement | Manual-wind calibre, 35 jewels, split-seconds chronograph with vertical clutch & column wheel | Fuses MB&F’s high-energy Legacy Machine architecture with an exceptionally complex rattrapante chronograph mechanism. |
| Split-Seconds Escapement | Independent, centrally mounted split-seconds hands actuated by twin column wheels | Allows precise timing of intermediate events while showcasing the choreography of dual clutch columns on the dial side. |
| Case & Dial | 44 mm in platinum or rose gold; domed sapphire, suspended balance wheel, 3-D bridgework | The floating balance and exposed split-seconds train create a dramatic three-dimensional “kinetic sculpture.” |
| Limited Production | Case numbers 0 – 18 plus unique piece 04WY53574 (total 19) | Ultra-scarcity boosts collectability; each number is individually recorded and traceable. |
Market Snapshot (Recent)
In 2024, the LM SE consistently achieved high auction results, with examples often exceeding pre-sale estimates, reflecting strong demand for MB&F’s technical marvels with limited availability.
Collector Angle
Technical Marvel: Combines avant-garde chronograph complications with Legacy Machine’s signature aesthetic depth.
Visual Drama: The exposed split-seconds mechanism and suspended balance deliver an unmatched kinetic experience.
Exclusivity: With fewer than 20 pieces produced, this watch is a rare gem, prized for its scarcity and craftsmanship.
(LOT 1027) URWERK UR-220 “Miami Vibe”
Ref No: UR-220 RG | Circa 2022 | Material: 4N Red Gold
Why It Matters
URWERK’s UR-220 series reimagines satellite-hour wandering-minutes displays with cutting-edge ergonomics and micro-engineering. The “Miami Vibe” edition, launched in 2022 in warm 4N red gold, layers the brand’s sci-fi design language with the pastel-sunset palette of South Florida’s Art-Deco heritage. Its limited run and flamboyant aesthetic make it one of the most arresting modern independent pieces for collectors who crave both mechanical theatre and lifestyle flair.
Key Technical Talking Points
| Feature | Detail | Why It’s Special |
|---|---|---|
| Movement | UR-7.20 manual-wind calibre, 59 jewels, 48 h power reserve, oil-change service indicator | Integrates URWERK’s signature satellite hour carousel with twin turbine regulators and a 24-month service countdown on the caseback. |
| Satellite Time Display | Three rotating hour cubes on planetary carriers sweep a retrograde 60-minute scale | Creates a cinematic “jump-back” motion each hour while keeping minutes perfectly legible along the track. |
| Case & Materials | 4N red-gold chassis, black DLC titanium caseback; 43.8 × 53 mm, 14.8 mm thick | The contrast of warm gold and stealth titanium echoes Miami’s sunset tones against night-time skyscrapers. |
| Edition Size | Very limited (rumoured <25 pieces) | High scarcity magnifies collectability, especially among URWERK aficionados chasing themed colourways. |
Market Snapshot (Recent)
Private-sale listings in late 2024–early 2025 show asking prices 20–30 % above retail, signalling strong secondary-market appetite for the red-gold UR-220 “Miami Vibe.”
Collector Angle
Neon-Noir Styling: Marries URWERK’s future-tech form with South Beach colour cues.
Mechanical Spectacle: Retrograde satellite hours deliver hourly drama and tactile winding feedback via twin turbines.
Rarity & Story: Ultra-small release, themed after a specific cultural vibe, positions it as a conversation-starting trophy in any modern-indie collection.
(LOT 897) H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon
Ref No: 1904-0400 | Circa 2023 | Movement No: 200’027’324 | 18 K Red Gold
Why It Matters
The Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon takes H. Moser & Cie’s “concept” philosophy—ultra-clean dials devoid of branding or indexes—and marries it to two pinnacle complications: a flying tourbillon and a cathedral-gong minute repeater. Launched in 2023 in warm 18 K red gold, this watch embodies the brand’s quiet-luxury credo while delivering an acoustic and visual spectacle rarely offered in such minimalist form. Production is strictly limited, making each piece a flag-bearer for Moser’s fusion of avant-garde restraint and high complication.
Key Technical Talking Points
| Feature | Detail | Why It’s Special |
|---|---|---|
| Movement | HMC 905 calibre, manual wind, 90-h power reserve, 35 jewels, single-minute repeater barrel | Integrates cathedral gongs and a one-minute flying tourbillon on the dial side, all within Moser’s in-house architecture. |
| Minute Repeater | Slide-activated chiming system with double cathedral gongs, hammers visible at 10 o’clock | Long gongs wrap the movement for richer, louder tone; dial-side hammers add theatrical micro-mechanical animation. |
| Tourbillon | One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, skeletonised bridge | Enhances chronometric stability while providing a mesmerising focal point on an otherwise index-free dial. |
| Case & Dial | Endeavour case, 43 mm × 14 mm, 18 K red gold; fumé “concept” dial with no logo or markers | The hyper-minimalist dial amplifies the acoustic & kinetic show; red gold serves as an elegant resonance chamber. |
Market Snapshot (Recent)
Boutique allocations were fully spoken for at launch; secondary-market offerings in early 2025 ask 15–25 % above retail, underlining demand for low-volume chiming Mosers.
Collector Angle
Acoustic Minimalism: A minute repeater in a near-blank-dial package is virtually unheard-of, embodying understated complication.
Visual Harmony: Flying tourbillon and repeater hammers create motion without clutter, staying true to the Concept ethos.
Scarcity: Production is in the low dozens, with individual movement numbers (e.g., 200’027’324) tracked in Moser’s registry—fueling long-term collectability.
(LOT 893) Krayon Anywhere
Ref No: C030-02 | Circa 2022 | 18 K Pink Gold
Why It Matters
The Krayon Anywhere refines Rémi Maillat’s groundbreaking “mechanical computer” concept—capable of displaying the exact sunrise and sunset times for any geographic coordinates the wearer chooses. Introduced in 2022 in 18 K pink gold, the watch miniaturises Krayon’s earlier Everywhere movement into a slimmer, more wearable case while preserving its unique, made-to-measure complication. By marrying poetic astronomy to daily-life utility, the Anywhere stands as one of the most original feats of 21-century independent watchmaking.
Key Technical Talking Points
| Feature | Detail | Why It’s Special |
|---|---|---|
| Movement | Krayon Calibre C030, manual wind, 432 components, 72-h power reserve, 55 jewels | Functions as a wrist-borne, gear-driven calculator that converts latitude, longitude & date into sunrise/sunset indications. |
| Sunrise/Sunset Display | Peripheral 24-hour ring with two coloured sectors that widen/narrow according to daylight length | Gives an intuitive “day-light barometer” while retaining central hour & minute hands for daily legibility. |
| User Setting | Crown-driven corrector lets the watchmaker program new coordinates on request | Owners can re-commission the watch for any location worldwide, making each piece personally bespoke. |
| Case & Dial | 39 mm × 9.5 mm, 18 K pink gold; multi-level dial with sunray-brushed centre, flinqué outer track | Combines classic dress-watch proportions with a layered architectural dial that showcases the astronomical scale. |
Market Snapshot (Recent)
Private sales in 2024–2025 show prices hovering near or slightly above original retail, reflecting the model’s niche yet passionate collector base and the brand’s ultra-low annual output.
Collector Angle
Poetic Utility: Turns an esoteric astronomical calculation into an everyday visual experience.
Bespoke Engineering: Each movement is individually adjusted to the owner’s chosen coordinates.
Discreet Rarity: Annual production is believed to be fewer than 25 pieces, and pink-gold examples are among the least seen.
(LOT 850) De Bethune DB25 “Starry Sky”
Ref No: DB25SJWS3 | Circa 2023 | 18 K White Gold & Sapphire-set Bezel
Why It Matters
No brand blends poetry and high-tech horology quite like De Bethune. The DB25 “Starry Sky” takes the manufacture’s patented blued-titanium night-sky dial—custom-plotted to a specific date and location—and frames it in 18 K white gold with a ring of baguette sapphires. The result is a cosmic miniature that marries cutting-edge materials science (mirror-polished titanium, silicon escape wheel) with artisanal hand-setting. Produced in tiny numbers and individually “mapped” for each owner, it epitomises De Bethune’s creed of mechanical art for the wrist.
Key Technical Talking Points
| Feature | Detail | Why It’s Special |
|---|---|---|
| Movement | DB2109V4, manual wind, twin barrels, 6-day power reserve, 29 jewels, titanium balance with white-gold weights | Combines De Bethune’s proprietary balance-spring with silicon escape wheel for temperature-stable precision. |
| Starry-Sky Dial | Blued grade-5 titanium, hand-applied white-gold pins & laser-engraved Milky Way; date/location personalised | Creates a unique celestial map for each client—effectively a bespoke astronomical portrait in metal. |
| Case & Bezel | 44 mm × 10.3 mm, 18 K white gold; bezel set with baguette-cut sapphires | Sapphires echo the dial’s luminescent blue while the thin fluted lugs keep classic DB25 ergonomics. |
| Display | Central hours / minutes; peripheral date pointer with blue-skeletonised hand | Keeps the dial largely unobstructed so the star field remains the visual protagonist. |
Market Snapshot (Recent)
Boutique-only release; secondary-market listings in early 2025 show ask prices 10–15 % above retail, reflecting healthy demand for sapphire-set De Bethunes with custom skies.
Collector Angle
Personal Cosmos: Each dial is a one-off star map tied to a meaningful moment or place.
Material Alchemy: De Bethune’s blued-titanium gloss paired with white-gold & sapphire gives jewel-watch allure without sacrificing technical edge.
Low Volume: Fewer than 10 pieces believed made per year, making sightings of DB25SJWS3 exceptionally rare on the wrist or at auction.
(LOT 895) Romain Gauthier Prestige HM
Ref No: MON00004 | Circa 2006 | Limited to 38 Pieces | 18 K White Gold
Why It Matters
The Prestige HM (Hours & Minutes) was Romain Gauthier’s debut creation, unveiled in 2006 and immediately announcing the brand’s obsession with immaculate hand-finishing and hidden mechanical ingenuity. Beneath its serene three-hand dial, the in-house calibre showcases Gauthier’s signature screw-head wheels and ultra-refined anglage, all executed to a standard that rivals grand-complication heavyweights. Capped at just 38 numbered pieces in white gold, this early reference is a milestone in modern independent watchmaking—where artisanal craft, not complication count, steals the spotlight.
Key Technical Talking Points
| Feature | Detail | Why It’s Special |
|---|---|---|
| Movement | In-house Calibre 2206 HM, manual wind, 60-h power reserve, 22 k gold gear-train bridges | Debuted Gauthier’s patent-pending screw-balance and distinctive circular-grain “wheel-skull” spokes. |
| Finishing | Black-polished steelwork, rounded anglage, hand-frosted main plate | Considered by collectors a benchmark for 21st-century hand-finishing—each bevel is rounded, not hand-filed flat. |
| Crown Placement | Flat winding crown at caseback, flush with rear sapphire | Maintains perfect case symmetry and protects the crown from shocks; winding ergonomics remain smooth thanks to a large diameter. |
| Case & Dial | 41 mm × 12 mm, 18 K white gold; off-centre time display with sunken small-seconds at 6 o’clock | The asymmetric dial layout hints at the calibre architecture while delivering understated elegance on the wrist. |
Market Snapshot (Recent)
Auction appearances are scarce; the last publicly sold example (2023) fetched CHF 160 000—well above original retail—underscoring intense demand for early-series Gauthier pieces.
Collector Angle
Genesis Piece: Represents Romain Gauthier’s very first commercially released model.
Finishing Showcase: Revered for movement decoration that rivals—and often beats—established grandes maisons.
True Rarity: With only 38 pieces made, reference MON00004 is seldom seen outside top-tier collections.
(LOT 894) Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Opaline
Circa 2020 | Limited to 12 Pieces | Stainless Steel
Why It Matters
Released in 2020 as a strictly 12-piece micro-edition, the Classic Origin Opaline distills Laurent Ferrier’s signature “pure classicism” into a no-date, time-only stainless-steel dress watch. Its creamy opaline-white dial, accented by the brand’s graceful Assegai hands and drop-shape indices, hides the hand-wound LF 116.01 calibre—a movement finished to Geneva-Seal levels despite the model’s understated, everyday-wear case metal. With production capped well below typical Ferrier runs, the Origin Opaline has become a quietly ferocious target for connoisseurs who prize low-volume steel independents.
Key Technical Talking Points
| Feature | Detail | Why It’s Special |
|---|---|---|
| Movement | LF 116.01, manual wind, 80-h power reserve, free-spring balance with Breguet overcoil | Exhibits Laurent Ferrier’s trademark hand-finishing—black-polished steel, sharp interior angles, and circular côtes de Genève. |
| Case & Material | 40 mm × 10.7 mm, polished stainless steel, ball-shaped crown | Ferrier’s soft “pebble” profile offers daily-wear durability while retaining haute-horlogerie grace. |
| Dial | Matte opaline-white with applied white-gold drop markers and blue-printed minute track | Opaline finish diffuses light evenly, emphasising the sculpted Assegai hands and minimalist aesthetic. |
| Limited Edition | Only 12 numbered pieces | Ultra-low production places it among the rarest modern Laurent Ferrier references—coveted by steel-watch hunters. |
Market Snapshot (Recent)
No public auction records yet; discreet private sales in 2024–2025 report prices around 1.5× original retail, reflecting surging demand for scarce steel Ferriers.
Collector Angle
Stealth Haute Horlogerie: Combines daily-wear steel with movement finishing normally reserved for precious-metal pieces.
Edition of Twelve: Rarity on par with bespoke independents, but in Laurent Ferrier’s established design language.
Future Blue-Chip: Early ownership offers exposure to a reference likely to surface rarely—and expensively—at auction.
(LOT 993) Czapek Quai des Bergues “Éternité”
Reference No. 13 / 33s | Circa 2017 | Limited to 100 Pieces | 18 K Pink Gold
Why It Matters
The Quai des Bergues was the debut model that resurrected the historic Czapek name in 2016, and the follow-up 2017 “Éternité” edition refined that formula with a hand-guilloché dial and upgraded SXH 1 calibre regulation. Rendered here in warm 18 K pink gold and capped at just 100 numbered pieces, the Éternité combines 19-century pocket-watch aesthetics (elongated Roman numerals, twin sub-dials) with deeply modern independent-watch execution. It stands as a landmark in Czapek’s revival story—and a foundational reference for collectors tracking the brand’s meteoric rise.
Key Technical Talking Points
| Feature | Detail | Why It’s Special |
|---|---|---|
| Movement | SXH 1 calibre, manual wind, 7-day twin-barrel power reserve, free-sprung balance | Developed with Chronode; long autonomy echoes 19-century Czapek pocket-watch specs while meeting modern chronometry. |
| Dial | Hand-guilloché “Ricochet” pattern, grand feu enamel sub-dials at 4:30 (small-seconds) & 7:30 (power reserve) | Complex guillochage catches light in waves; enamel registers reference historic Czapek double-sub layouts. |
| Case & Material | 42.5 mm × 11.8 mm, 18 K pink gold, box sapphire | Polished pink gold warms the silvery guilloché; slim bezel maximises dial real estate. |
| Limited Edition | 100 pieces, each numbered on the caseback | Early-era Czapek low-volume run—seen by collectors as the brand’s “founder’s series.” |
Market Snapshot (Recent)
Auction sales in 2023–2024 hover between CHF 25 000 – 30 000, a solid premium over original launch price and evidence of steady appetite for first-generation Czapek limiteds.
Collector Angle
Revival Keystone: One of the earliest post-2015 Czapeks, predating later Antarctique hype and thus historically significant.
Artisanal Dial Work: Deep, crisp guilloché and enamel accents rival métiers d’art from larger maisons.
Long-Power Reserve Charm: Seven-day autonomy plus twin-sub symmetry recalls 1850s pocket chronometers—now in wrist form.
Closing Perspective
As the gavel falls at Phillips | Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX on 23 May 2025, 18:30 GMT, the catalogue reads like a greatest-hits playlist of modern independent horology. From the brass-era F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain that ignited today’s indie boom to the micro-limited Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Opaline, the cosmic theatre of De Bethune’s DB25 “Starry Sky,” and the bold futuristic storytelling of Urwerk’s UR-220 “Miami Vibe,” each lot tells a chapter of 21st-century watchmaking written outside the walls of the grandes maisons.
What unites them is not a shared complication or aesthetic, but a common insistence on pushing personal vision to its artisanal and technical limit—whether that means Krayon’s latitude-driven sunrise calculator, MB&F’s split-seconds kinetic sculpture, or Romain Gauthier’s debut showcase of hand-finishing perfection. In a market that now prizes provenance and individuality as highly as precious metal, these watches represent more than rare machinery; they are milestones in a continuing narrative of creative freedom.
Expect spirited bidding, record-nudging hammer prices, and—most importantly—new custodians for watches conceived to outlast trends and, in many cases, their very makers. For collectors, Auction XX is less an event than an opportunity to claim a slice of independent watchmaking history while it is still measurable in tens—or even single digits—of pieces rather than hundreds.
